Truffle associations also strike agreements with absentee landowners to keep their wooded property cleared in a way that promotes truffle growth. Incentives include a program paying 24 euros ($26) a year to property owners to maintain host trees they might otherwise remove. Unlike the more common black truffle, delicate white truffles cannot so far be cultivated, which makes preservation of their environment critical. It is a system that works on the table, but needs to go together first in nature.” “Because the truffle and the Barolo are two formidable components. “I told him, ‘The day you take all the oaks, only you will drink your wine,’” Olivero said. Olivero recalled a maker of the region’s famed Barolo red wine who wanted to cut down two oaks - trees that are perfect hosts for truffles - that were shading his vines. The goal is to safeguard the symbiosis between the truffle and the host plant by encouraging symbiosis between the truffle hunter and the land owner - whose interests often conflict. To stave off the longer-term climate change impact on the production of the highly prized white truffle, experts have launched initiatives to better preserve the territory where they grow. “We have had over the last three seasons one terrible year, one excellent season and one that is decent.” “It has been a few years that we have been worrying about truffle production,” said Antonio Degiacomi, president of Italy’s national center for truffle studies. Climate change has in effect delayed peak production from October into November. The longer-term impact of rising temperatures on the highly prized white truffles is still being studied, but they, like other fungi, grow best in cool, rainy conditions. The rest he consigned to the soil, allowing the spores to spread and hopefully replenish future production.Īlba, located in the northwestern region of Piedmont, has earned the moniker “white truffle capital of the world” for its particularly fragrant variety of truffle, its truffle fair each fall and its annual charity auction, which pushes prices of the tuber magnatum pico up into the stratosphere.Ī truffle weighing 1,005 grams (2 pounds, 3.4 ounces) fetched 120,000 euros ($133,000) - more than twice the price of gold - from a Hong Kong buyer at this year’s auction. “They are clearly signs of the temperatures,’’ Olivero said, holding one that he kept in his pocket. This particularly warm October, eight out of 10 white truffles unearthed by Carlo Olivero with his trusty 3-year-old dog Steel were dark, withered and dried out. 10, 2019, a white truffle dug from the earth by Carlo Olivero, who has been hunting for prized white truffles in the hills near Alba in the northern Italian region of Piedmont.
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